Відео

It didn’t idle poorly. It wouldn’t rev over 10,000. The bike was overheating in stop and go traffic like if I was under 20 mph for a while probably because the mix was so lean. It really just felt like a bad clutch when it first started. Quickly it became so bad that I noticed it wasn’t the clutch. It felt like the bike had a 10,000 rpm governor.

@@MoneyisanIllusion did you have any issues with fuel pressure once you did the mod?

No

They probably made them out of better metal back then. This cast aluminum looks weak. Also this truck has 345,000 miles and was used as a plow truck for I don’t know how long.

I’m worried about the suede holding up. If I did it again I would go full leather.

@@MoneyisanIllusion I think full leather is a solid plan. I see plenty of leather S550 seats available in my area and have been wanting something different. Not to mention, your video shows how to make the seats sit low...which I strongly prefer.

It’s probably the resistor if not it could be the switch. I would start with the resistor since it’s way cheaper.

I’m not sure if they sell a replace string thing but the mount under the steering column could be damaged. They sell replacement aluminum brackets to hold that gear indicator string onto the column. It is probably stretched out.

Under the column at the end of the gear indicator line is an adjustment wheel. Very easy adjustment to do. Now that you are familiar, replace the plastic connector with an aluminum piece for $9.99 :)

I might be worried about the filter after the pump either getting clogged and burning out the pump or limiting the pump and making your bike run lean.

@@MoneyisanIllusion I'll look into that. I didn't think about that it would make it run lean.

That was already on my truck when I got the truck so I have no comparison for that. I just added the wicked wheel 2. The setup as it is defuels at like 2800-3000 rpm and flashes a check engine light. I just have the off the shelf tune from the SCT. I have bought a boost fooler wire but I have not installed it yet. The boost fooler is supposed to trick the ecu not to defuel the motor at the top of the rpm range.

Near impossible

Why would you use the name of our Lord and Savior's name in vain? I will pray for you.

@@timgiles9413I can deal with a lot of cussing…but that’s the one I can’t tolerate

@@timgiles9413because Ive studied what happens when you die for 35yrs now & found out what happens. Made it my priority in life & its not what you think. Theres not a god damn magical thing about it.

Probably

I ended up not finishing it yet. Went for a full restoration so I removed everything under the car and painting and rebuilding the suspension, doing full exhaust and wheels tires brakes everything basically. If I remember correct I used slightly less harder than the directions because their measurements left a white haze. Then I have a inline drier filter and was spraying at like 60 psi I think. I am going to make a final video when I’m done restoring the under side of the car. It takes a lot of paint but the parts I finished that are done correctly look really nice.

I was wondering how long it would be before someone asked. I think it would cost too much because of how much time to take apart the seat and make them. I also would have to take apart my seats to do it if I had to ship them, which is not ideal. If it was whatever you pay for the angle iron and $20 roughly for a junkyard slider you could do it yourself for under $200 but honestly it’s so much work I don’t think I would want to do it again even for $1000 because it takes forever. I did it little by little over about 3 months for both seats. To do it straight through would probably take a week. Are you near southern New Jersey?

I am in what some call south new jersey lol ie florida I have seats and sliders I would just need the angle iron drilled and the slots made in it lol but I'll try next weekend with a buddy who is a tech at Ford showed him your video he said we could probably do it in a day per side What thickness angle iron did you use

1/4” there’s a link in the description of which I used.

I was humming and hawing about doing the two...but you helped me change my mind!

High on ac doesn’t make the ac compressor clutch run the entire time. When it’s on ac max it makes the compressor run the whole time. You need either an ac compressor clutch or ac compressor itself. Since you say max ac works less than just having the ac on it would seem the clutch gets hot and slips when it’s under 100% duty on the max setting. You may need a shop to do the recharge of the r134a under vacuum to refill completely. Those cheap refill bottles from parts store never work good.

@@MoneyisanIllusion gotcha. I mean it’s not blowing but maybe 1/4 at “Ac max “ compared to full blow at “ac” which is wierd .

Also when it’s on “ac max” it blows some air from the defrost near the windshield.

Did you try to pull up ur blower motor and see if there debris in the ducts. That’s a easy and free thing you can do now before throwing parts at it.

@@MoneyisanIllusion no but planned to do that today and clean the evap coil today aswell.

Yea it does. Got worse since that video.

Thanks. The trick is you take them all apart and leave the pieces in your garage for months. Then you feel bad and are forced to do it 🤣